Folar da Páscoa - Portuguese Easter Cake

Posted on March 20, 2008
Filed Under Food

Seems the Easter bunny has arrived and Easter is in full swing here in the Algarve. Actually truth be told, Easter eggs started popping up in shops everywhere, about two weeks ago. Can’t hold out on the Portuguese sweet tooth too long or possible chaos might ensue.

Like many European countries, Portugal has a strong Catholic belief that drives most of its cultural events. This time of year is of course passover, then in a few days, Easter. Churches will be filled for mass and various processions will be happening throughout local towns and villages, and like everywhere Easter is celebrated, Easter egg hunts will be organized and A LOT of chocolate will be devored. But in the Algarve, we have a little something special that challenges, even the likes of chocolate…we call it “Folar da Páscoa”.

As I may have mentioned, Portuguese have an insatiable sweet tooth, there’s just no denying it, so with that said; the Folar is our sweet Easter specialty: doughy, caramel covered, cinnamon and anise spiced goodness….maybe its more appropriate to call it “Sin” - and it’s addictive. Actually, I think I hear the one I made this morning, calling my name…

Along with the majority Portugal’s sweet traditions, the Folar originated in the convents and monasteries of the 17oo’s, and is still enjoyed today with steadfast devotion. Created especially for Easter as a fancy bread to be shared, or given as an offering, the Folar has a strong connection to brotherhood, and is often thought to symbolize Jesus sharing bread at the last supper. Enjoyed throughout the country, each region has its own claim, in the north there are many savory versions, but in the south the sweeter the better, and in keeping with religious belief; a hard boiled egg(s) can often be found decorating Folars as a symbol of rebirth.

Today, the tradition still lives on with many families baking Folars to enjoy and share with friends. The Folar is now, also commercialized and sometimes available in grocery shops, but nothing compares to those given to you by a baker who made one just for you. When you’re in a Folar receiving circle, you’re fortunate to have the baker make it just the way you like it, my preference: not too sweet but with nice pockets of gooey caramel on the inside and a crisp gooey shell on the outside, heaven. But I always request a small one, otherwise; I will eat the entire thing.

The mysterious thing about the “Folar” is the lore behind the recipe and technique. Families pass down recipes over generations and bakers responsible for the recipe guard it with a tight lip. Even though there’s only a few ingredients the variations do make a difference and every year the “Best Folar” is debated over dinner tables across the country, between bakers and sweet lovers alike. Creating friendly competition to decide who bakes the best Folar and who should be the official taster of the next one. If you have the opportunity to go to traditional Portuguese home at Easter, you could find yourself amongst multiple Folars and their respective bakers, all vying to satisfy your taste buds - a delicious and stressful predicament. Here in the Algarve, the stickiest, toffee’st, most tooth aching sweet Folar, will be the sure winner.

Growing up I knew two things were guaranteed at Easter; chocolate and that mom would bake Folars, as a kid with an inherited sweet tooth, these were happy, happy times!

Since I couldn’t find anyone willing to give up their recipe, mom included, I found something close and hope it does me proud. This recipe has been reduced to make approximately 2 cakes, unlike the family recipes that make 10+.

But before venturing down the road of making my first Folar, I thought it best to watch masters at work, and do some “Traditional Folar Apprenticeship”. The recipe is of course top secret and passed down a few generations, along with the headscarf, apron and clay bowl that make up the customary garb of a traditional Folar baker. And in keeping with tradition this family has an old style wood oven that awaits this sweet dough magic every year. The only modern twist in sight, was a bread machine - alleviating the 4-5 hour hand kneading treachery.

Folar Masters

Folar da Páscoa

2 cups all purpose flour
7 Tbsps butter softened + 6 spoons reserved for rolling
2 1/2 Tbsps dry active yeast
8 Tbsps granulated sugar
1 Cup warm milk
1 Tbsp fresh lemon rind
1 Tsp salt
2 Tbsp anise seed
1/8-1/4 cup hot water

Spice Seasoning
4 Tbsp brown sugar
2 Tbsp ground cinnamon
1 Tbsp anise seed

Folar Finishing
6 Tbsp brown sugar
2 Tbsp Canola oil
2 hard boiled eggs in shell

Tip: To give this recipe an extra boost on the rising, I recommend using a yeast starter, in addition to the yeast in the recipe. You can create a starter by purchasing ready made dough from you local baker, and let it sour over night. The next day when ready to make your Folar use about 4 Tbsp’s or 2oz of this soured dough yeast, with the rest of the Folar recipe.

1. Warm half of milk, then add dry active yeast and blend, add some of measured flour, salt and blend to make a soft ball. Leave in bowl, covered with a tea towel, wrap bowl in a thick blanket and place in a warm draft free spot for 20min where it will double in size.

Folar-Algarve

2. Make tea with water and anise seed, keep warm and set aside.

3. This dough is very sensitive to heat so make certain the room is kept at a consistently warm temperature. After 20 minutes the yeast and dough mix should have doubled. When ready, place remaining flour in large bowl, add sugar, remaining milk, flour yeast mixture, yeast starter from night before, lemon rind and butter. Mix well and knead using your machine’s dough hooks; dough will be a bit rough, slowly add splashes of warm tea with seeds, and continue kneading and adding splashes of tea until dough is soft and has lots of elasticity, approx. 20min. You do not need to use all the tea. Keep an eye on the dough to make certain it soft, sticky and elastic before resting. It will not form a ball when ready, but more of a thick sticky elastic dough paste.

Folar-Easter

4. When elastic and ready, lightly dust with flour and cover with a tea towel, then wrap entire bowl with a warm blanket and place it in a warm draft free spot, to rise for an hour.

*Tip: Dough will grow quite a bit so leave lots of breathing room for it to expand, and keep weight of blanket on bottom of bowl. Also, avoid placing bowl on cold surface and cover entire bowl with blanket including bottom.

Folar-Prep

5. While dough is rising prepare pots, spice blend, heat oven and grease counter.

Pots: Grease pots VERY generously with butter, leaving some thick globs of butter on bottom, then sprinkle a generous amount of brown sugar and a light drizzle of Canola oil, set aside. *Important Note: pots need to have handles on them to make turning out Folars easy and safe from burning caramel. Smallish, deep oven proof type soup pots are ideal.

For the spice mix: Blend yellow sugar, anise seed and cinnamon and mix well.

Oven: heat oven to 200C/392F, check that heat setting is from bottom of oven.

Counter: Clean counter well to avoid any transfer of flavours and wipe with dry cloth, then grease with a bit of oil

6. When dough has risen, remove half and gently spread into a rectangle on greased counter, try to keep the thickness uniform. Some areas of dough may form bubbles and leave small gaps, that’s ok. Spread a thin layer of softened butter over entire surface then sprinkle generously with spice blend. Then fold half lengthwise towards center, spread butter and sprinkle with more spice mixture, do the same with the other half. Once both sides have been folded over spread butter over center and sprinkle again.

Folar-Folds

7. After the dough’s layers are well coated with butter and the spice blend, start at one end and roll the dough onto and over itself until it looks like a chubby rolled bun, immediately place one of the rolled sides up in pan. Repeat with remaining dough.

Folar-Rolo

8. Before placing your Folars in the oven, cover with dampened paper - the trick I learned, use recycle used flour bags. Cut off bottoms, then cut lengthwise to open bag, then dampen with water and mold around pan, tucking corners into handle. Works like a charm and prevents tops of Folars from over cooking.

9. Bake Folars for 45 and check with toothpick to see if cooked through, you will need to remove the paper cover. If dough sticks to toothpick it needs a few minutes longer, you can leave paper off to let Folar get its dark golden colour.

10. Have a plate ready to turn out Folar when it comes out of the oven. When Folar is baked, remove from oven and immediately turn out onto plate to make certain caramel at bottom doesn’t have a chance to cool and prevent the Folar from coming out of the pan. The caramel can cool in seconds, so you’ll need to move quickly. But be very careful as hot caramel may drip from sides while turning out. Let caramel at bottom of pan drip onto folar, this will harden and create a chewy coating.

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How did mine turn out? Well…sadly my Folar lost some of its bottom, guess that’s appropriate since this was my first time, and I was really going by the seat of my pants. But it tastes great, and thanks to my apprenticeship, I know what went wrong, so I’ll be making fixes for the next time around.

Folar-Portuguese-Easter-Cake

A few of the things I should have done:

Remebered the lemon rind, it gives a really nice flavour to the dough
Kept a closer eye on my rising dough - if using the extra starter method it really only needs an hour rising
Don’t use yellow sugar in the dough instead of white, white sugar gives the dough a better consistency, so use granulated white sugar
Have the oven rack on the lowest level possible, and have the oven set to heat just from the bottom, this ensures the sugar on the bottom turns to gooey caramel
Have smaller deeper pans with handles that can handle the oven
Don’t forget the eggs!
Remove Folar from oven and immediately turnout onto plate, no waiting, or it will stick to bottom of pan..this includes taking a few photographs….believe that’s where my Folar lost its toosh.

Although there’s only a few ingredients, Folars are somewhere between science and art, and now I understand why family recipes are so well guarded. My first Folar isn’t exactly ready for sharing, although Moses has all but left a few crumbs behind, so guess it passed the test, and I’ll be ready to share with familia and friends next year. Thanks Armando and Lucilia for the crash course, couldn’t have done it without you!

If you liked this article, you might also like these articles:

Bolo Rei - Portuguese Christmas Cake

Tarte de Natas - Portuguese Fresh Cream Cake

Pasteis de Nata – Portuguese Custards

Chocolate Salami - Salame de Chocolate

Comments

7 Responses to “Folar da Páscoa - Portuguese Easter Cake”

move to portugal on March 21st, 2008 8:50 am

I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll be able to keep my weight down when I come to Portugal! Lovely.

Happy Easter to you and Moses
ricardo on March 22nd, 2008 12:32 am

Agora só falta provar esse folar.

Uma boa Páscoa para voçês
David Leite on March 23rd, 2008 12:59 am

Eddie,

The folares look incredible!! Happy Easter.

David
Eddie on March 23rd, 2008 11:21 am

Thank You & Happy Easter!

I’ll be sure to share mine next year. I’ve eaten two so far and tempted to start a third.

This cake is very addictive!

Uma boa Páscoa!
Marian Jorge on March 23rd, 2008 11:54 pm

thanks for posting this recipe. When I was little my grandma used to make this for us on Easter and it was delicious. I have a mental picture of how she made it but didn’t have the ingredients…now I do thanks to you. Thanks!
Apolonia on AlgarveBuzz.com on March 24th, 2008 10:38 am

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Eddie on March 25th, 2008 4:14 pm

Ola Marian,

Glad you can fill those saudades you had for folars, its a dangerous recipe to have, because is so tempting. But its also, wonderful to indulge in those treats from the past, isn’t it? Enjoy!