Coffee with Ms. Piggy in Loulé

Posted on September 22, 2007
Filed Under Cities

When we ventured out this afternoon in search of the “European No Car Day” in Loule, we expected to see the new ecofriendly cars, some solar powered cooking and maybe give some thought to how we could be more ecofriendly ourselves. What was in store was drastically different than the script we had planned.

A Day in Loule Algarve

On searching through the old city, no Ecocars could be found, hungry and remembering a favourite fish spot a few steps away we headed to O Pescadore (The Fisherman) Restaurant, a hidden spot on the side alley of the Loule market. This is a local gem that’s hard to find, but has great fresh fish daily. From all the times we’ve been there, I don’t once recall the owner not being present to welcome guest with a friendly spirit and smile. We also can’t remember ever seeing a tourist here, it’s very much a local haunt, regularly packing a mixed crowd of everyone from construction workers to bankers, it’s that kind of place. The food is simple but good, fast and inexpensive, but best of all the service is friendly with at least two of the works having been with the establishment for more than 22 years. As our fish grilled, we caught up with one of the waiters — he had some news we weren’t ready for: O Pescador was closing at the end of the month … fortunately only temporarily. Seems the building is in trouble and needs some TLC, so at end of September the face lift starts, and is projected to take approximately a year.

O Pescador

I had just snapped a couple of pictures and was glad I did, this place is loaded with history; hopefully it keeps its charm, but in case it comes back looking shiny and new I’ve got the character lines on film and in memory. We skipped coffee to have it at the old café down the street, but couldn’t leave without dessert, the caramel Molotov was incredibly fresh and fluffy, just enough to put me officially over the edge of, “oh so stuffed”.

Walking to find the event we originally set out for and to wear off that overstuffed feeling, produced no Ecofreindly anything, could we have missed it? We grabbed some local event announcements, and there it was in print on the first page “Dia Europa Sem Carros”…but where was it hiding? We headed to a few more spots where it “could be”, and nothing. Having no success and in dire need of caffeine we set off to grab our café.

To the old café - now renamed Calcinha was built in 1924 and originally named “Café Central”. This is one of those places you wished the walls told tales. A hangout for artist, businessmen and even the famous poet Antonio Aleixo. The décor has been beautifully preserved with 19th century chandeliers, columns and dark wood. Café goers can join a sitting bronze of Antonio Alexio on the esplande while enjoying their coffee; he’s been immortalized here weathering generations of management and coffee aficionados alike. But don’t expect this to be the sort of place where retired ladies tea in the afternoons, the Café is a meeting spot that continues to attracts an eclectic crowd where tattooed bikers enjoying super bock mini’s sit next to grandma’s with purple hair sipping on bicas. All are welcome here, even the most unexpected guests.

Central Cafe

As we reached the esplanade of the café, we along with every other pedestrian were stopped dead in our tracks. There she was…she is the type of girl that makes you look twice, incredible, could it be …? Her name was Lilly - petite, with dark hair and golden highlights, her toes painted hot pink, she wore a thin sexy red leash and a heart breaker, stopping every pedestrian walking by. While we enjoyed our coffee she kept us company entertaining and amusing us with her antics and although she was a pig, she was also a lady. Rough handed males beware, when one tried to pick her up, the diva inside her let out a deafening squeal, no mistaking this was piggy code for “hands off buster!” This tiny Miss Piggy was a force to be reckoned with, you go girl! Miss Lily’s daddy, let us know she’s just a baby, and has some growing up to do, but she’s expected to keep her smallish physique, and I assume a style to match. We watched in awe as she charmed every passerby, and then it was time to say good-bye.

Ms. Piggy

We walked though winding cobblestone streets looking for ecofriendly anything, we came across interesting restaurants, galleries, monuments, the Loule castle that’s hard to miss, the market, the copper shop with incredible work done two doors down, and lots of little shops and café’s and even stumbled upon an artisan fair. There was plenty to see and do in Loule with no shortage of shows and entertainment for the evening as well. Although we didn’t get to come away with an eco-friendly experience we did get enchanted by a wonderful city and charmed by its most unusual hosts.